Cold clutch acts weird...

[Baby Kito]

So Ive been on this forum lurking for months, close to a year and their is a ton of info thanks to Joey and others and I thank you all for it, but now I'm stuck. I have a B6 04 with a stg 4 kit and recently when cold, whenever I accelerate the clutch will randomly slip/ grab and shudder the car. It's complete random and can do it anywhere between 1st-6th. I'm not losing fluid and it only recently began doing this. Somedays it will, others it won't. The kit has been on the car for over a year. I'm absolutely stumped. Audizine hasn't been much of help and I've been in contact with Joey but so far I'm still stumped. THe car once warmed up freakin hauls and drives fine, so thats where I'm lost. Any clues?

[a4spoolin]

have you looked to see if your valve covers or rear main is leaking?

[Baby Kito]

My valve covers where before but no longer do since I recently replaced and checked for leaking. And I'm not losing oil so my rear main I believe is fine. But even if oil was in there, why would it be fine after getting warmed up?

[pitchs4]

Don't panic. Just bled it and it will probably be fine. If something were leaking onto the clutch to making it slip, it would slip all the time. If it is just when cold my guess is it is fluid related. Do you feel a "sticky" spot in the clutch pedal if you throw it in and out when it is cold? I did and when it was really cold the car surged and grabbed awkwardly as the clutch wasn't engaging smoothly.

To bled it you gotta remove the driver side axle from the transmission flange and remove the axle dust/heat shield. The slave cylinder is above the shield on top of the transmission. Top off the brake res and have someone pump the clutch a few times, and then hold it down (disengaged). Connect a tube to the bleeder on the slave cylinder and open it (9mm if I remember correctly). Let some fluid run out and then close it before the person releases the clutch. Top off the res again and repeat. You don't need anything fancy as far as brake fluid, it doesn't get nearly as hot as the actual brake fluid in the brake lines. I used Motul Dot 5.1 and I ran the entire 500ml bottle through.

I used a power bleeder on my B6 but I just assumed you don't have one. If you do then it will be even easier but the procedure I just described worked fine on my B5 S4 years ago. It solved my issue (both times, although the B5 never actually slipped I just had the sticky pedal feel at times when cold) and for <10 bucks you can at least rule it out. FWIW my fluid was still pretty clear and had 79k miles on it.

[a4spoolin]

My valve covers where before but no longer do since I recently replaced and checked for leaking. And I'm not losing oil so my rear main I believe is fine. But even if oil was in there, why would it be fine after getting warmed up?

if some seal was seeping, while the car sits over night some oil will get on the clutchface. after driving for a little it will burn off resultig in fine engagement. what material is the clutch

[Baby Kito]

I don t remember the exact material clutchmasters stage 4 kit. I can try and look back. Whole that come into play as to why it's strangly engaging etc? I would think the same thing about seeping. Earlier when I was doing my VC I had a ton of oil go down the back of the motor, it might have soiled the fluid? And now needs bled as he said possibly. That's making the most sense at this point to me atleast

[pitchs4]

It wouldn't have soiled the fluid, the fluid is in sealed lines if oil got in you would have no pedal throw at all (cause there would be a leak somewhere). Like I said spend the 10 bucks to bleed it and at least you can rule that out.

[Baby Kito]

Looks like thats what Im doing!

[pitchs4]

Just be careful. It is not easy to see or access the slave cylinder and once you find it be careful not to over tighten the bleed screw, it can strip easily. Good luck.

[Baby Kito]

Could you go a little more in depth or direct me towards a link or info regarding doing this job, I'm not mechanic but I do know quite a bit on how things go down. And is their a way to flush the system? Thanks a lot pitch! so far you've helped me a lot.

[pitchs4]

This is essentially flushing the system. I do not have a link but the procedure is really common among vehicles the only intricacy is finding the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. It might help to take a look at one on JHMs site so you know what you are looking for. I've you have never bled brakes I don't suggest trying this as it is a little more difficult. If you mess up and get air in the system it could be difficult to get out.

[Baby Kito]

Alright. Ive done a brake bleed before but Ill have to get someone more car savvy to assist with this one. Would you suggest changing the slave as well?

[pitchs4]

No defiantly do not change it unless u are sure there is an issue with it. It is a PITA.

[Baby Kito]

hahaha. Sounds Good.

[road race s4]

You're still on the dual mass flywheel?

[Joey]

No defiantly do not change it unless u are sure there is an issue with it. It is a PITA.

This... don't touch that damn thing! lol

[S4Bennett]

I've bled my clutch hydraulic system without removing the axle. It's a bit tight but there's enough room to swing a line wrench and box wrench.

Do the symptoms occur while engaging the clutch (releasing the clutch pedal)? Or, do they occur when simply stepping on the gas with the clutch fully engaged?

[Baby Kito]

No I have a lightweight flywheel. I dealt with those awful dual mass in my old S4 and made sure to get that outta the way. It happens when simply pressing the gas. But now it seems to be happening barely at all. Which is pushing me to draining the system.