Audi B6 S4 DIY: Serpentine Belt / Service Position / Snub Mount

[beemercer]

mine had no vibration fwiw

[JarrettJettaVR6]

edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt
edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt
edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt

i apologize, this should be my last polluting of this thread

upon thinking i've finished the snub, tensioner, serpentine, idler job, i was left with two bolts and two washers, we all know the feeling

as you can see below there are two bolts with two black washers, the washers have a shape to them that allows them to be a spacer as well it looks like, then there are two white washers

after rereading through the diy several times it looks like these were not in there, i must have pulled them out for some reason during the job though, only thing i can recall doing not in the diy is pulling loose the power steering res to gain easier access to the rear bolt for the driver side headlight

do the white washers belong with the black bolts? that's my assumption
does anybody recall where these may have come from? anything with the secondary windshield washer reservoir?
i know they came out of the car prior to the two big 6mm hex bolts in the bumper behind the fog light surrounds, in fact, they probably came out prior to even pulling any bolts on the rad support if that helps

i hope you guys can help, thanks, i've been looking and thinking for hours and can't seem to come up with it, haven't pulled the fender liner back down yet, what a pain



edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt
edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt
edit: found where they go, there run vertically behind the fog light surrounds next to the 6mm hex bolt

[Joey]

Finally looked at this at home and IIRC these screw are located by the fog lights. You need the grills out to see them though. Not sure why they are out to begin with though when you took your bumper off. They don't need to come out

[Joey]

Edit: Noticed that you posted the answer before i replied. Glad you figured it out!

[JarrettJettaVR6]

Haha no worries..thanks for the help always...ya i pulled them thinking they were the right ones..then read the diy closer to see that it said 6mm..and i just never put them back

[ebaer]

Is there a DIY for the Idler Pulley and Tensioner? Thanks

[DTMOOOO]

Its just straight forward, when u get everything apart they just bolts on and off

[Joey]

Is there a DIY for the Idler Pulley and Tensioner? Thanks

I can add instructions tonight. They are very simply.

[ebaer]

I can add instructions tonight. They are very simply.

Thanks Joey.
Does anyone have the Audi part numbers for both, Tensioner Assembly and Idler Roller?

[JarrettJettaVR6]

don't have the part numbers but

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...f742c112394500
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...f742c112394500
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...f742c112394500
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...f742c112394500

[newaudiguy]

What are the major differences between these diy and a b7? Everyone says the b7 is a pain in the ass but I don't understand the differences (also haven't looked)

[beemercer]

What are the major differences between these diy and a b7? Everyone says the b7 is a pain in the ass but I don't understand the differences (also haven't looked)

I believe its mostly because the headlights can't be removed before the bumper, so you have to get the 3-per-side fender/bumper nuts through the fender liner

[Joey]

What are the major differences between these diy and a b7? Everyone says the b7 is a pain in the ass but I don't understand the differences (also haven't looked)

Front bumper pull and headlight removal are really the only differences

[newaudiguy]

joey what would be the process for a b7 then?

[DTMOOOO]

Its the same thing once the bumper is off, remove bumper cover and headlights then follow the instructions as shown in the DIY.

[Joey]

This DIY below should help you get the bumper off, then follow my DIY for the rest. If someone with a B7 can confirm the bumper removal is the same for an S4 i will combine the two and make a B7 DIY

Audi B7 A4 DIY: Bumper removal

[newaudiguy]

I'll confirm for you tomorrow or friday (which ever day i do it)

[DTMOOOO]

Its the same thing for the s4 as the a4, just dont mess with the 2 bumper height adjustment screws and removal and install are a breeze, you dont even have to take the wheels off if you just turn them while getting into the fender liners. Also it helps to have an extension for this part as getting this bolts off are a little tough the first time since they are hard to see and reach

[Joey]

Cool I will work on a hybrid diy from the two then.

[newaudiguy]

hey guys if you have a belt that isnt an audi belt (order from jhm sent me a conti belt) which way should it face and should it really matter??

[JarrettJettaVR6]

I wasnt sure..didnt figure it mattered or there would be arrows...so i faced lettering to be legible from standing in front of the car

hey guys if you have a belt that isnt an audi belt (order from jhm sent me a conti belt) which way should it face and should it really matter??

[Joey]

hey guys if you have a belt that isnt an audi belt (order from jhm sent me a conti belt) which way should it face and should it really matter??

Either way is fine

[dparm]

Joey,

Planning to install the Apikol snub mount and maybe the serp belt next weekend too. How can you tell if the tensioner and idler pulley are in need of replacement? The tensioner and idler pulley can be had for about $130 from GAP.

[DTMOOOO]

Joey,

Planning to install the Apikol snub mount and maybe the serp belt next weekend too. How can you tell if the tensioner and idler pulley are in need of replacement? The tensioner and idler pulley can be had for about $130 from GAP.

How many miles are on your car... Usually if the belt needs to be changed the idler and tensioner should along with it as for some reason they are very sensitive on these motors and can cause a new belt to break.
I changed my out at 39k miles to do the LWCP and they seemed fine. But while having everything apart the 140 bucks for the extra parts seemed like a no brainer

[dparm]

65,000 and change. It's an 05 and it doesn't get driven much.

[DTMOOOO]

If your doing the belt it's worth it to get the new tensioner and idler pulley, or else you will be kicking urself if you have to pull everything apart again if you snap a belt.
So I would say just replace them while you are in there as a maintenance item and call it a day

[dparm]

I don't even know if the belt needs to be done. Is it even possible to inspect it from above?

[Joey]

Yes, peer down from the top of the engine with a flash light. Look right between the 4.2 cover and the radiator support. Look for shredding and wear and replace if necessary. With 65K miles it is getting to be time to have it done.

There are really not many symptoms for a bad tensioner and idler pulley. Sometimes they will squeal, but other than that you wont get signs of a bad tensioner pulley until you start snapping belts. For the price of both parts it makes sense to just do it while you are in there (if it hasn't been done yet).

[dparm]

Thanks. I'll just replace it to be safe. Probably selling it this spring but in case I don't...plus the next buyer will always want it to be current on maintenance.

EDIT: ordered the OEM belt, tensioner, and pulley for $175 shipped (GAP). Got an Apikol snub too. Hooray project time!

[dparm]

All,

When installing the new tensioner, how are you supposed to know the correct "adjustment" for it? There's a bolt that moves the roller to adjust tension. Typically you need a force gauge and some spec from the manual.

[dparm]

Duh, nevermind. After looking at the tensioner design (ingenious, BTW) it's pretty obvious that you ARE tensioning it properly if you use the 70nm/22nm thing with the two bolts.

For once, the Germans' complexity is a GOOD thing. My father was actually really impressed, too. Here's the info from the TSB that details it:




– Position torque wrench at hex of tensioning roller and pre-tension ribbed belt to 70 Nm +5/-0.
– Simultaneously, tighten tensioning bolt to 22 Nm.
– Check belt routing.
– Start and Run engine for 3 minutes.
– Switch engine Off.
– Re-tension ribbed belt to 70 Nm +5/-0.
– Simultaneously, tighten tensioning bolt to 22 Nm.
– Start engine and check belt running.

[jwcjr123]

I lost a belt the other night, had to do this yesterday. Great write up, thanks Joey. And thanks to Fly300kts for the b7 bumper removal DIY.

Just wanted to share a few things I noticed if you have a b7:

I did not have to remove my headlights to do this. The b7 headlights are a giant pain in the ass to remove because of the 3rd torx screw that runs behind the light. I just left the lights in and did not have any problem.

The driver side aux radiator shroud was connected differently. It has 4 8mm (iirc) nuts, 2 top, 2 bottom. These connect to 2 plates with welded screws. Not difficult to remove, just wanted someone else not to be surprised if they don't see the 10mm bolts like on the passenger side.

Watch out if you have the headlight wiper fluid sprayers. When you remove the bumper and disconnect the fogs, you'll go to disconnect the fluid line and there will be a little runout.

My main aux bolts were normal 13mm, not 45 torx.

Finally, this seems common sense, except for someone like me who spent an hour trying to get the new belt on, but if you try to replace a belt when it's 30 degrees out, it's going to be a pain to get the belt to stretch enough to get it to feed properly. Thought it was my tensioner not opening enough, turns out if you go inside to throw the belt in the corner and try again later, it works fine.

Thanks again Joey and Fly300kts!

[nicotino15]

did you remove the 3 large bolts on each side of the radiator in order to allow it to move? I did to change out my snub mount and when I put it all together my bumper/headlight alighment is off now. I didn't remove my headlights, but now my right headlight sticks out a little bit, and my hood is really hard lock shut now.

[Fade2black]

http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/q...t/P1040006.jpg

What's this part # or what are the called ?

Thanks

[DTMOOOO]

They have them on Ecs u can get the part number off that easy to look up there... Or when I get in like 4 hours I'll post it up for ya

[SlideWays]

Sorry for crossposting this from AZ but I am looking to get this noise taken care of.

My belt itself is in good condition, there is just a clattering racket coming from what I can only surmise is the tensioner or pulley. It is not a squealing like a belt, its not a squeaking, its just a loud clatter.

I know JHM sells the idler pulley and the whole tensioner assembly. Is it better to just get a new belt, new pulley and whole assembly, or is there a way to figure out what is actually causing the noise prior to removing the whole fking bumper and rad support?

[Joey]

Sorry for crossposting this from AZ but I am looking to get this noise taken care of.

My belt itself is in good condition, there is just a clattering racket coming from what I can only surmise is the tensioner or pulley. It is not a squealing like a belt, its not a squeaking, its just a loud clatter.

I know JHM sells the idler pulley and the whole tensioner assembly. Is it better to just get a new belt, new pulley and whole assembly, or is there a way to figure out what is actually causing the noise prior to removing the whole fking bumper and rad support?

Shoot some lubricant one one of the pulleys while the car is on ramps and running. Spray the idler pulley first... it is quiets down then you know you should replace that. If it is still making noise then aim at the tensioner pulley. Good way to save you the work of pulling the whole nose off and doing trial and error with the pulleys.

[SlideWays]

Haven't had a chance to get under the car (closing on a new place to live) but I'll try that. However, I noticed a new noise today and not sure if it's related or just bad luck.

It's a whine, almost like a differential gear whine, that comes on at random points in the powerband, depending on throttle pressure. I was afraid it was a front diff, as thats where it sounded like it was coming from, but given my tensioner and/or idler is making noise, I'm thinking maybe its the belt?

It doesnt sound like belt squeal that I know, but do failing belts/pulleys make a whining noise on this car? Moreso than a squeal or whistle. It's not constant. Only seems to happen at 2k and 2900 RPMs, depending on throttle position/engine load. Just really weird and kinda freaking me out. Im guessing its related (as in, hoping its not a diff/input shaft making a racket) but it just doesnt match the usual symptoms of belt/pulley noise.

Edit: nevermind, belt grenaded on the way home from work today. Ordered new belt (conti) and tensioner and idler.

Joey did you ever make that addendum to removal and replacement of the idler/tensioner? Is it easily doable in service position? Don't want to drain the rad if I can avoid it, but I don't want to just go poking around back there either trying to figure my way out.

[SlideWays]

Any reason why a Contitech 5PK1105 (the conti replacement for oem) wouldn't fit? I've got my tensioner fully relaxed and still cannot get it to go on, its about 1/2-1" too short. Anyone have this problem?

[notacop01]

Hey Slideways, I just ran into the same problem.

You have to take the tensioner off completely to get the belt on. There are 2 6mm hex bolts at the bottom of the tensioner that hold it on.

All the belts are now "updated" so they are a little shorter.

This is from JHM "NOTE: This belt has been updated to a shorter belt as of 3-6-12. It now requires completely unbolting the tensioner (only two 6mm allen bolts) to allow for installation of the belt. Once the belt is on you just bolt the tensioner back on and then set the tension. This shorter than stock belt helps prevent the B6-B7 S4's problematic belt throwing issue."

Belt goes on easily once you take the tensioner off.

Hope this helps anyone else having this issue.